Learning About Chimney Swifts

 Learning About Chimney Swifts 
by Tristan's Chimney service  Contact us by email!.

Tristan's Chimney Service

What is Chirping in My Chimney ?

    If you’ve heard some cheeping coming from your chimney, you probably have been a victim of a Chimney Swift nesting. And while the noises may have vanished with the coming of the cold, the remnants of these nestings and the future hosting job you inevitably have, still lingers behind. Chimney Swifts are protected under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. This Federal Law prohibits the removal of any migrating bird without a federal permit. On top of that, due to the nature of migratory birds, if you had a nest in your chimney last year, you can expect the flock to return, to the exact same chimney. Therefore, if your goal is to keep the birds at bay, the problem must be taken care of in the proper manner at the proper time. On the other hand, you may wish to keep these little creatures around. In this article we will discuss how to keep Chimney Swifts away and also how to best handle providing a good home for these birds that is beneficial for you as well as for the Chimney Swifts.

 What Are Chimney Swifts   ?

   The most common migrating birds typically found in the Eastern United States are Chimney Swifts. These birds are unique little creatures. They are often mistaken as bats due to their rapid flight and their likelihood to reside in chimneys. But up close, these birds look very distinct. While they only weigh about an ounce and their body is only about 5 inches long, their wings span approximately 12 inches! Their wings have a unique shape to them, like thin half moons. In addition to their different wing design, unlike other birds, Chimney Swifts are not able to perch horizontally such as on tree branches and if they do end up landing on the ground or another flat surface, it is difficult for them to get into the air again. This difficulty with level ground is because their legs and feet are designed specially to hold onto the vertical walls of chimneys. In fact, they mostly live in the air and typically only land to sleep at night and raise their young. Rough vertical surfaces provide the resting places for these birds and a place to build their nests. Their nests are built onto the chimney walls using their sticky saliva and little sticks and twigs they gathered in flight. These birds live off of all types of insects which they catch while in flight. During the summer months they migrate to the North and when the weather turns chilly, the birds head to South America to avoid the cold.

 Why Should I Care ?  

Chimneys Should Be Capped To
Keep Out Intruders Like Birds,
 Critters, Leaves, Branches and
Other Things That Can Cause
 Obstructions.

 The Chimney Swift population in Connecticut is rapidly declining at about 4 percent annually. Historically, these birds would nest in hollowed out trees and structures, but with the destruction of forests and decline of their natural habitat, these birds adapted and began nesting in masonry chimneys. This adaptation allowed the birds to survive in more diverse habitats but now with more and more chimneys being capped and metal flue liners installed, their expanded habitat is decreasing once again.

The chimney caps keep the birds from entering the stone structure in the first place and metal flue liners do not have enough rough surfaces for the birds to hang onto. In fact, uncapped metal chimney liners pose a threat for Chimney Swifts, as the birds can easily get trapped inside. Chimney Swift migration season starts in late March and then they are gone by the first signs of winter in early November. Therefore, once the Chimney Swifts have arrived and chosen your chimney to build their nest, you must leave them alone till they leave in the Fall. You may not even realize the birds are nesting until the young make noises when the parents bring home food. This is the only time the birds will create a ruckus and it always takes place about 2 weeks before they take flight on their journey to the south. But there is one major benefit to keeping Chimney Swifts around, the little birds eat about a third of their weight in insects every day. This includes troublesome mosquitoes, termites, beetles, and many other tiny pests. You can even consider the minor disturbances at the end of their stay as your only sacrifice for enjoying a bug free summer! Chimney Swift Towers Many bird lovers actually construct special towers designed to house the visiting Chimney Swifts as they migrate into the area looking for places to nest. You can find easy to build Chimney Swift Towers online and construct one near enough to your home that you can enjoy watching the birds, but far enough away that they will not create any problems. If your chimney is capped, they will look for the next best thing and find your tower. Some communities that are known as annual nesting grounds have constructed large towers for these migrating birds. The swifts favor larger chimneys, so abandoned factories with smokestacks are a favorite place for a summer home.

 How do I keep the birds away?

  If you act during the right time, preventing the nesting of Chimney Swifts is a very simple task. After finding Chimney Swifts nesting in your chimney, wait till they have migrated back to the south and have your chimney inspected and cleaned. Note that it is illegal for any chimney sweep to remove an active nest of migratory birds. If the chimney inspection reveals an active nest, reschedule the appointment to a date after the birds have moved on. It is important to have the nest and other remnants of the birds removed from the chimney once the Chimney Swifts have moved on to prevent fire hazards. Then, the best solution to prevent any further nesting is to put a chimney cap on the chimney. This will not only prevent the birds from nesting again, but it will also protect your chimney from leaves, rain water, other animals and numerous other things from getting into and creating problems with your chimney. Keeping the birds out is a simple fix and furthermore, a chimney cap is a good addition to any chimney anyway. Whether you appreciate the company or would rather steer clear of the commitment, it is important to know about the residents of your chimney.

                                               Check out this video on chimney swifts!

Tristan's chimney service Certified chimney sweep of the high country of North Carolina: watauga, mitchell, yancy, avery county

Water Proofing and Your Masonry Chimney

Water and Your Masonry Chimney
The chimney is one of the most taken-for-granted parts of a home. Typically it tends to receive neither the attention nor the concern usually accorded other household service systems. The fact that chimneys may do their job reasonably well, even when abused or neglected, contributes to this atmosphere of indifference. Chimneys are far from the passive black holes that most people assume them to be. They perform several vital functions, and their simple appearance misrepresents their complex construction and performance requirements. A chimney deteriorated by constant exposure to the weather can be a potential safety hazard. Weather-damaged lining systems, flue obstructions and loose masonry materials all present a threat to residents. Regular chimney maintenance is essential to prevent damage, deterioration and future high-cost chimney repairs.
Masonry Chimneys
A masonry chimney is constructed of a variety of masonry and metal materials, including brick, mortar, concrete, concrete block, stone, flue tile, steel and cast iron. All masonry chimneys contain combinations of, or possibly all of, these materials, most of which are adversely affected by direct contact with water or water penetration.

Water Penetration
All masonry chimney construction materials, except stone, will suffer accelerated deterioration as a result of prolonged contact with water. Masonry materials deteriorate quickly when exposed to the freeze/thaw process, in which moisture that has penetrated the materials periodically freezes and expands causing undue stress. Water in the chimney also causes rust in steel and cast iron, weakening or destroying the metal parts.
Note: While most stone is not affected by water penetration, large amounts of mortar are required to bond the stone together properly. Therefore, a stone chimney – just like a brick chimney – should be protected from the effects of water penetration. Water penetration can cause interior and exterior damage to your home and masonry chimney including: • Rusted damper assemblies • Deteriorated metal or masonry firebox assemblies • Rusted fireplace accessories and glass doors • Rotting adjacent wood and ruined wall coverings • Water stained walls and ceiling • Clogged clean out area • Deteriorated central heating system • Stained chimney exterior • Decayed exterior mortar • Cracked or deteriorated flue lining system • Collapsed hearth support • Tilted or collapsed chimney structure • Chimney settlement In addition, when water mixes with creosote in a wood burning chimney system, it will generate a highly disagreeable odor that can permeate a home.

Preventing Water Damage
Chimney caps, also called rain covers, are probably the most inexpensive preventive measure that a homeowner can employ to prevent water penetration and damage to the chimney. Chimney caps have long been recognized as an important chimney safety and damage prevention component. Underwriters Laboratories (UL) specifies that any chimney lining system that is to be listed to their test standard must include a chimney cap.
Chimneys have one or more large openings (flues) at the top that can collect rainwater and funnel it directly to the chimney interior. A commonly-sized flue has the potential to allow large amounts of rain or snow into the chimney during just one winter when freeze/thaw cycles are common.
Chimney caps also provide other benefits. A strong, well-designed cap will prevent birds and animals from entering and nesting in the chimney. Caps also function as spark arrestors, preventing sparks from landing on the roof or other nearby combustible material.
A chimney cap should be easily removable to facilitate inspection and cleaning. For a long and effective service lifetime, a cap should be constructed of sturdy, durable and corrosion resistant material. Caps may be designed to cover a single flue, multiple flues, a large portion of the chimney or the entire chimney top. A full coverage chimney cap usually represents a larger initial investment. However, it is probably the best investment for long-term protection because of its ability to protect the entire chimney crown.
Repair or Replace a Damaged Chimney Crown
The chimney crown (also referred to as the chimney wash) is the top element of a masonry chimney. It covers and seals the top of the chimney from the flue liner to the chimney edge. The crown should provide a downward slope that will direct the water from the flue to the edge of the crown. The overhanging drip edge, by directing the run-off from the crown away from the chimney, helps prevent erosion of the brick and mortar in the chimney’s vertical surfaces.
Most masonry chimneys are built with an inadequate crown constructed from common mortar mix that is designed for years of weather abuse without cracking, chipping or deteriorating. A proper chimney crown should be constructed of a Portland cement-based mixture and cast or formed so it provides an overhang projecting beyond all sides of the chimney by a minimum of two inches. The flue liner tile should also project above the crown a minimum of two inches.
Repair Deteriorated Mortar Joints
Deteriorated mortar joints on the chimneys exterior are entry spots for water. Proper mortar joints have no gaps or missing mortar and are shaped in a way that directs water out of the joint. When mortar deteriorates from exposure to weather, it becomes much more absorbent. A common repair for deteriorated mortar joints is called repointing. In this process, the existing mortar joint is cut to an appropriate depth and the joint is repacked with new mortar. The joint is then cut to form a concave surface that will direct water out of the joint. A good repointing job, using proper materials, will give the chimney a much longer life span, and often will enhance its appearance.
Repair or Replace Flashing
Flashing is the seal between the roofing material and the chimney. Flashing prevents rainwater or snow melt from running down the chimney into living spaces where it can damage ceilings and walls and cause rot in rafters. The flashing is the expansion joint between two dissimilar materials. It is designed to allow both the roof and the chimney to expand and contract at their own rates without breaking the waterproof seal in either area.
Install a Cricket to Stop or Prevent Leaks
If the chimney is located on the low side of the roof where water run-off is directed against the chimney, the installation of a cricket will afford additional protection against water leaking into the home. A cricket is a water deflector that serves to direct rainwater away from the chimney. Crickets are recommended on chimneys more than 30-inches wide and they are especially important on steep roofs.
Waterproof Your Chimney
Most masonry materials are porous and will absorb large amounts of water. Common brick is like a sponge, absorbing water and wicking moisture to the chimney interior. Defective mortar joints or the use of improper mortar or brick can greatly increase the tendency to absorb and convey water to the interior of the masonry chimney.
Several products have been developed specifically for use as waterproofing agents on masonry chimneys. These formulas are 100% vapor permeable, which means that they allow the chimney to breathe. Therefore, water that has penetrated and the vapors produced when the chimney dries out or the water vapors produced during use are allowed to escape, while the waterproofing agent prevents water from entering from the outside. These products usually have a five- to ten-year warranty. Paint or clear sealers should never be used as a waterproofing agent because they will trap water vapors and moisture inside the chimney causing further deterioration.
Waterproofing is a preventive measure. When damage or deterioration (gaps, voids, cracks, missing mortar, etc.) already exists in a masonry structure, the chimney should be repaired before the waterproofing agent is applied. The chimney exterior may also need to be cleaned before the waterproofing material is applied. CONTACT US

Safely Heat Your Home by Tristan's Chimney Service

Safe Home Heating 

 It’s so easy and automatic that people just don’t think about it. Every year, when the weather turns cold, homeowners reach for household thermostats, flip a switch to turn on the heat and set the temperature to 68 or 70 degrees. Little thought is given to whether the furnace exhaust system – the chimney and connector pipe – is ready to provide safe, effective service. Consumer confidence in the convenience and safety of today’s home heating systems is usually well-placed. The oil and gas heating industries have achieved impressive safety records. Nonetheless, over 200 people across the nation are known to die each year from carbon monoxide poisoning caused by problems in the venting – out of their homes – of toxic gases produced by their heating systems. This is according to statistics compiled by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission. Other agencies estimate actual numbers at between 2,000 and 4,000. In addition, around 10,000 cases of carbon monoxide-related “injuries” are diagnosed each year. Because the symptoms of prolonged, low-level carbon monoxide poisoning “mimic” the symptoms of common winter ailments (headaches, nausea, dizziness, fatigue, and even seasonal depression), many cases are not detected until permanent, subtle damage to the brain, heart and other organs and tissues has occurred. The difficulty of diagnosis also means the numbers of people affected may be even higher. 

 Fortunately, regular chimney system inspection and maintenance can prevent poisoning incidents like these. 

What Carbon Monoxide Does to You 

Too much carbon monoxide in your blood will kill you. Most of us know to try to avoid this. Less well known is the fact that low-level exposure to this gas also endangers your health. One of the truths of our human bodies is that, given a choice between carbon monoxide and oxygen, the protein hemoglobin in our blood will always latch on to carbon monoxide and ignore the life-giving oxygen. Because of this natural chemical affinity, our bodies – in effect – replace oxygen with carbon monoxide in our bloodstream, causing greater or lesser levels of cell suffocation depending on the intensity and duration of exposure. The side-effects that can result from this low-level exposure include permanent organ and brain damage. Infants and the elderly are more susceptible than healthy adults, as are those with anemia or heart disease. The symptoms of low-level carbon monoxide poisoning are so easily mistaken for those of the common cold, flu or exhaustion, that proper diagnosis can be delayed. Because of this, be sure to see your physician about persistent, flu-like symptoms, chronic fatigue or generalized depression. If blood levels of carbon monoxide are found to be high, treatment is important. Meanwhile, it makes good sense to put heating system inspection and maintenance on your annual get-ready-for winter list.
  

Prevention is the Best Cure 

    Causes of Heating System Problems Why is poisoning from carbon monoxide on the rise? And why does it stem primarily from home heating systems that – at first glance – seem the same as those that have been used safely for years? Today’s houses are more air-tight. Homeowners are aware of the cost of heating drafty homes and have taken steps to seal up windows, doors and other areas of air infiltration. Consequently, there is less fresh air coming into a home and not as many pathways for stale or polluted air to leave it. And, when furnaces and boilers are starved of the oxygen needed to burn fuels completely, carbon monoxide is produced. Manufacturers have designed new,high-technology heating appliances whose greater efficiency helps us save money, conserve natural resources and decrease environmental pollution. However, the new breed of high-efficiency gas and oil furnaces – when vented in to existing chimney flues – often do not perform at an optimum level. The differences in performance create conditions that allow toxic gases to more easily enter home living spaces.
 The above conditions point out a number of older, ongoing problems that still require detection and correction in order to prevent toxic gases from filtering into the house. These include damaged or deteriorating flue liners, soot build-up, debris clogging the passageway, and animal or bird nests obstructing chimney flues. Caring for Your Chimneys & Flues When gas and oil burn in vented heating systems – in order to produce household heat – the dangerous fumes that are by-products of combustion range from soot (particulate matter) to nitrogen dioxide (also toxic) to acidic water vapors formed when moisture condenses. None of these pollutants should be allowed to leak from the chimney into your living space. In addition to carrying off toxic gases, chimneys also create the draft (flow of air) that provides the proper air and fuel mixture for efficient operation of the heating appliance – whether a furnace or boiler. Unfortunately, many chimneys in daily use in homes throughout the country either are improperly sized or have conditions that make them unable to perform their intended function.

 Chimney Problems to Avoid 

    Oil and gas furnaces have distinct burning characteristics and produce different combustion by-products. However, the chimneys and connector pipes that serve them share common problems. Both systems are subject to weathering, animal invasions, deterioration and rust-out and the accumulation of nest materials and debris. Both require regular care and maintenance. Oil flues need to be cleaned and inspected annually because deposits of soot may build up on the interior wall of the chimney liner. The amount of soot depends on how well-tuned the furnace is and whether the house provides sufficient air for combustion. Excessive soot causes problems that range from chimney fires … to flue deterioration … to chimney blockages that direct toxic fumes back into the house and cause inefficient furnace operation. See the brochure from the CSIA specifically relating to oil-burning appliances. Natural gas is a clean-burning fuel, but today’s high-efficiency gas furnaces pose a special problem. The fumes they produce are cooler and contain high levels of water vapor, which are more likely to cause condensation than older models. Since these vapors also contain chlorides picked up from house-supplied combustion air, the flues are subjected to more corrosive conditions than before. Even worse, many gas appliances use chimneys that once served oil furnaces. If the liners of these chimneys are made of terra cotta (fired clay commonly used in chimney construction), bits and pieces of them slowly flake off under corrosive conditions.
   The combination of water-laden gas vapors available to mix with old oil soot deposits speeds this process, and debris that can block the chimney builds up at the bottom of the flue. To the extent that problems with either of these heating systems interfere with the flow of toxic gases and particles out of the house, they may also force carbon monoxide, fumes and possibly soot into the living spaces of your home. They may cause a one-time, high-level exposure situation or release smaller amounts more regularly over a longer period.
  These problems should never be ignored. Preventing Problems In the United States, numerous agencies and organizations now recognize the importance of annual heating system inspection and maintenance in preventing carbon monoxide poisoning. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, the National Fire Protection Association, and the American Lung Association – are some of the organizations that now encourage the regular maintenance of home heating systems and their chimneys in order to keep “the silent killer” at bay. A well-tuned furnace or boiler – connected to a venting system or flue that is correctly-sized, structurally sound, clean and free of blockages – will operate efficiently and produce a warm and comfortable home. An overlooked heating system can produce death and heartbreak. Considering the risks involved when gas or oil systems are neglected - and the benefits that accrue when they are properly maintained - you would do well to have your chimneys checked annually by a Certified Chimney Sweep® and swept or repaired as needed. This can keep illness or death from carbon monoxide poisoning from claiming you or those you love. 

Seasoning firewood

What Is the Best Species to Burn?

There are a handful of wood species that are commonly used as firewood in the NC High Country.  The species of the wood isn’t as important as the moisture content of the wood. For the most part, all species have about the same energy content per pound. The difference is that species vary in density. Oak, Yellow Locust, Hickory & Maple firewood, which are common to this area,  are very dense woods and produce long lasting coals to keep your stove toasty warm all through the night. Softer species such as Poplar or Pine can be burnt easily, but they are not as dense and will burn faster and will not leave the long lasting coals like a dense wood will.
As we said above, moisture content is very important when it comes to getting the most energy out of your firewood. When a tree is first cut its moisture content will be about 50%. The optimal range is for the wood to be in the 15% – 20% moisture content range. There are firewood moisture content meters, but with a little bit of practice you should be able to tell if firewood is seasoned or not just by looking at and doing a few quick tests on the wood. Here are a few quick ways you can tell if the wood is ready for burning yet.

• The wood will tend to turn to a grey or a yellow color depending on species once it is seasoned.
• You can split a piece of wood and see if the inside of it feels damp. If it is damp, then it is not ready to burn yet.
• Check for cracks and checks in the end grain. More often than not, dry wood will be cracked on the ends. This method isn’t 100% full proof, but it does serve as a good starting point.
• Take two pieces of wood and bang them together. Dry pieces of wood will make a hollow sound, while wet pieces of wood hit together will make a solid dull sound.
• If you are able to compare to wood you know is not dry yet, dry wood weighs much less than wet wood due to all of the moisture being gone from the piece.
• If you are still in doubt, you can always try and burn a piece. If it is dry, the wood will ignite and burn easily, otherwise it will be hard to start, smoke a lot and hiss if it does actually catch fire.